Believe it or not your lawn and landscape is an important part of the equity in your home. Your exterior green spaces can make up as much as 15% of the total value of your property. Luckily, the cost in maintaining your green spaces can be very little, especially when you look at the value and enjoyment that a well maintained property brings to your life and neighborhood. And in these times let’s not accelerate ever declining property values of our neighborhoods.

I am a small business owner who, like most, is juggling work and life with his wife and three children. Finding the time to take care of my own lawn and green spaces sometimes takes a back seat to, well, “life”. But spring lawn care is probably the easiest time of year for lawn maintenance. When done properly it will help you achieve a healthy vibrant lawn and will provide a good foundation to withstand the harsh temperatures of the dry hot summer months. Depending upon your own unique circumstances, you may only have the need or budget to implement a few of the tips below.

Spring Lawn Tip #1: Raking

Raking will be your first task of spring lawn care. Sorry, but even though we just raked in the fall you need to do it again. But, this is more than just leaf and debris removal. Raking in the spring is to help control thatch and reduce the effects of snow mold and other diseases. If you see any matted patches of lawn, where the blades are stuck together, that is likely caused by snow mold. And, a thatch build-up of more than 1/2 inch is considered excessive and will prevent new grass from taking hold. A light raking will help new grass penetrate thatch and break up any matted layers due to snow mold.

Spring Lawn Tip #2: Core Aeration

If you, your kids and even your pets are on the lawn often year after year, it may eventually start to show signs of decline. In such cases, your lawn is probably suffering from compaction. Lawn core aeration is the remedy for compaction. You can rent lawn core aerators at our local Home Depot, Lowes or Sunbelt Rental for about $65 or you can contact a local company to come do it for you.

Extra Tip: When you aerate be sure to make at least two perpendicular passes. If you plan on over-seeding your lawn at the same time you aerate you should make three passes for best results

Spring Lawn Tip #3: Over-seeding Although fall is the preferred time for over-seeding or re-seeding your lawn, spring may be the best time if your lawn is riddled with bare patches due to dog spots, heavy traffic or neglect. Over-seeding your lawn is the application of grass seed using a spreader, or even by hand, and casting it out onto the lawn. This casting motion provides even distribution which will help to fill in those bare patches and start good new growth in your lawn. It is advised to use a garden rake or dethatching rake to “score” the ground prior to over-seeding for maximum germination. You will want to wait until the temperatures are a pretty consistent 60 degrees before spreading seed. A premium grass seed should be used and be sure to identify whether you need a sunny, shade or mixed seed. You will also want to apply a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer when you over-seed and then a few weeks after the grass germinates, apply a quick-release nitrogen fertilizer.

Spring Lawn Tip #4: Grubs!

You may not be a lawn care professional but you can check for grub damage pretty easily. While surveying the lawn, check for a grub-damaged lawn in the form of irregular sections of brown turf that will easily detach from the soil. Sections of turf will pull away typically, almost like fresh laid sod. Simply repair by removing the damaged turf, then spread some soil and over-seed. Once completed you should treat the area with a grub prevention product from the local hardware store. If you think you find other areas that are suspicious or indicative of disease but you are not quite sure, just call a professional.

Spring Lawn Tip #5: Soil Tests and pH

A key to a healthy lawn is to first think about your soil’s pH levels, is your lawn too alkaline or too acidic or just right? A soil pH balance of 6.5 is generally ideal for most grasses in our area but certain grasses are better suited to more alkaline or acidic conditions. You can test the pH using a DIY kit for a rough estimate or you can take samples and send them to a soil lab for more accurate readings. The pH can be adjusted—acidic soil, soil with a pH of 6 or below, may require an addition of alkaline lime to raise the pH. To lower the pH of moderately alkaline soils, soils with a pH of 7.5 or so, add organic material, such as peat moss, or temporarily increase your fertilization levels by 25%. For soil with extremely high pH, amend with sulfur or iron sulfate.

Spring Lawn Tip #6: Fertilizing

Going natural or organic with lawn fertilizer is a great way to look at protecting the environment and in some cases cutting costs. Lawns can be fertilized organically by using compost and mulching mowers. But for those who prefer chemical fertilizers, which are perfectly fine for the environment and the health of our families if used correctly, you can pick up a number of fertilizers at our local hardware stores. I recommend a lighter feeding in spring and a heavier one in late fall for the types of grasses in our area. Too much fertilizer in spring can lead to disease and weed problems in the summer and fall. And if you have already fertilized in late fall your lawn is still breaking down and using that fertilizer in spring.

Spring Lawn Tip #7: Pre-emergent Herbicides

If you know that you have a problem with crabgrass then fertilization in spring should go hand in hand with the application of pre-emergent herbicides. As their name suggests, pre-emergent herbicides address weed control before their seedlings can even emerge. Pre-emergent herbicides accomplish this by inhibiting seed germination. Crabgrass begins its assault on lawns in spring, when its seeds germinate so proper use of a pre-emergent herbicide will work amazingly well when applied properly. Applying pre-emergent herbicides should be done sometime between the time the forsythia bushes stop blooming and the lilac bushes begin blooming.

Extra Tip: Most pre-emergent herbicides will prevent grass seed from germinating as well. So be sure to time any seeding efforts with the use herbicides properly.

Spring Lawn Tip #8: To Pull or not to Pull

Okay, so you took care of crabgrass but now you have those pesky dandelions. Unless you find their cheerful yellow flowers desirable, you'll want to snap off their flower stems before they produce seed. You may want to consider paying any young children you have a nickel for every dandelion head they bring you. If you're more ambitious, you can dig them out by the roots yourself. Spraying dandelion weeds with post-emergent herbicides is more effective in fall than in spring so if you do choose to spray, select an herbicide for broadleaf weeds.

Spring Lawn Tip #9: Water – More but Less

Our lawns need approximately an inch of water or “rainfall” a week to be truly healthy. Our unpredictable weather can leave you wondering if the lawn is getting enough water on rain alone in the spring. To ensure your lawn is getting enough water simply place a jar or clear cup outside and measure the amount of rainfall in any given week, and then water accordingly. Additionally, you can make your watering dollars stretch farther by watering immediately after a light to moderate rain. This ensures deep penetration of nutrients and water to your grass’ root system. For those with irrigation systems, you will want to set them to water infrequently but deeply for maximum benefit. Light watering schedules do not help root systems develop and will only promote turf diseases.

Extra Tip: The most important reason that plants need water is that this is how they absorb most of the nutrients that they need. Any fertilizer needs water to dissolve it and make its nutrients available to the grass. So be sure to water properly after fertilizer is applied.

Spring Lawn Tip #10: Prepare to Mow!

Mowing the lawn all summer can be tiring enough, right? Why make it more difficult on yourself by putting up with a lawn mower that doesn't start up immediately? When a lawn mower is stubborn about starting up, that is a sure sign that it needs a tune-up. Although it’s often possible to get by without one, it is recommended that you have a lawn mower tune-up each year. Be sure to sharpen blades regularly!

For more information contact us or call 614-547-5700 today.

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